Injector Control Pressure Modification
aka the 10K Mod

What do you need?

A 10k ohm resistor. 1/4 or 1/2 watt rating
two pieces of thin insulated wire. 18-22 guage is fine (telephone type)
soldering iron
solder
black tape or heat shrink

*OR* to build your OWN pigtail..

GM part number 10096181 3-wire coolant temp sensor for a 1993-1997 GM LT1/LT4 motor
GM part number 12102748 Connector pigtail (incl. terminals)

How Do you do it?

Solder the two pieces of wire to the ends of the 10k resistor to make the leads longer.
Fold one end over so both wires are beside each other. Careful not to let the resistor leads touch.
Cover the whole thing in black tape or heat shrink (prefered) leaving the two wires exposed.
Force the exposed ends under the ICP plug's rubber seal and expose a little of the copper
wire from the insulation of your resistor pack. Fold the copper wire over and insert into
two of the three holes. Blue with Green stripe and Grey with Red stripe are the wire
colors on my truck of the holes I used.

*OR*

If using the GM connectors, destroy the metal sensor portion of the coolant temp sensor in
order to extract the plastic connector in one piece. Remove the sensing element so that you
are left with just the plastic and the pins. Solder the pigtail directly to the newly
extracted connector and install your resistor between the correct pigtail leads. You now
have a PLUG AND PLAY version that looks more professional, and doesnt involve pushing
wires under connector seals.

So what does it do?!

It tricks the computer on the truck to supply a higher pressure to the injectors
effectively giving the fuel a little extra kick into the cylinder.
On a completly stock truck, it should be good for about 30HP and 100 lb/ft of Torque
If you have any chips or tuners, the effect will be slim to none as the ICP is already
being modifed by the chip/tuner in most circumstances.

UPDATE!

Some other tinkers have found that the 10k mod does in fact give you a little extra low end
but at a sacrifice to top end power. Every truck is different and you may need to play around
to find exactly what your truck likes. If you dont have Gauges, then I wouldnt stack mods like this

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Locate The ICP plug on the drivers side of the engine, just behind the alternator

Another view

Force the two wires UNDER the rubber seal, fold into a "U" and hook them into the correct holes.
I've been asked why I dont solder the resistor in. Simple. If I ever need to take the truck in for warranty
work, I can just pop it out in a flash, and there is no sign it was in. Ford is kinda cranky about mods.

Replace plug and turn Ignition Key to "RUN" but do not start. Check for Service Engine Light.
If it cycles on and off (like normal), you got it right. If it turns on and stays on, simply
remove the ICP plug and check your connections. You may have to do it a couple of times.

This Mod has Options?!

The above is the SIMPLE 10k mod. More advanced versions use variable resistors (potentiometers) to
adjust from around 3.9k to 15k ohms. The lower the resistance, the more power you can make, but
the worse the truck runs at idle. You may also notice increased exhaust gas temps that could exceed
safe levels. Others incorporate switches to turn the mod ON and OFF, or intigrate the circuit
with the Idle Validation Circuit to turn the mod OFF when your foot is off the throttle pedal.

UPDATE!

So I finally installed gauges in my truck, and Im glad to report that the above version of the 10k mod
does NOT exceed 1100 degrees pre-turbo temp on my truck. Anything under 1300 is GOOD.

I have also been emailed by a gentleman who has created a DIODE mod, based upon experimenting with
the 10k mod. For more information on THAT mod, please visit www.thedieselstop.com and read
THIS FORUM THREAD about the diode mod.

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